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茨城のプロカメラマンは、どなた?

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IPA茨城写真家協会ブログ

China West (05) by Yo Nagaya

青海(チンハイ)湖は中国最大の塩水湖。地殻変動を経て、一時期は黄河と繋がっていた時代もあったが、現在は流入する雪解け水はあっても、出口の無い湖となっており湖底のミネラルや塩分が湧出し徐々にその濃度を増している。一番の観光名所は、バード・アイランド(鳥島)で鵜や他の渡り鳥の営巣地があり国立公園として保護されている。中国の学校教育ではこの保護区はある意味、中国がどれだけ真剣に環境保護を実施しているか、というプロパガンダ的な扱い。国民が一度は観に行きたい、と思わせるほど熱の入った紹介だそうだ。翌日、実際に訪問。中国的価格水準ではべらぼうな入場料金からすれば、パスすべきだったが、百聞は一見にしかず。チンハイ湖の見晴らしだけは良かったので、良しとする。
今宵の宿はチベット式民宿。牧畜をしながら、湖畔で民宿を営んでいるチベット人一家の世話になる。レンガと泥で固めた母屋で食事をし、チベット遊牧民スタイルのテントで寝る。母屋には調理用も兼ねた石炭ストーブが使われており、室内には石炭の燃える匂いがこもり、ただでさえ酸欠気味なのに余計に息苦しさを感じた。夜半から大雨となり高地特有の寒さとなったが、テントへの浸水などはなく、とりあえず寝る事はできた。高山病の一種か、かるい頭痛は夕食時のビールと白酒(バイチュウ)で追い出す事ができた。

Ching Hai Lake is the largest saltwater-lake in China. It was created as a result of tectonic activities in this region. One time or another, it was feeding water to the Yellow River but now it is a closed lake. Although snow runoff keeps supplying fresh water to the lake, salinity is on the rise since salt and mineral deposits at the lake-bottom are seeping out into the water.
The main attraction for the visitors to this area is the Bird Island, a national park for protecting nesting grounds of Common Black Cormorant and other migratory birds. In the Chinese school education, the park has been glorified as a sort of propaganda expressing how deeply China is concerned with protecting natural environment. It is being introduced in school textbooks so elaborately; all Chinese would want to visit the place at least once in their lifetimes.
Next morning, so we did, and as you guessed, we were quite disappointed. The entry price was a rip off and we should have skipped the visit here, but to be able to say anything about this place, one must just see it. The only consolation was that the place did offer a nice view of the lake.
We stayed at Tibetan style tent hotel by the lake for the night. It was owned and operated by a Tibetan family who keeps Yaks and goats as well. We took our dinner at the main house built with bricks and mud, and slept in Tibetan style tent. The main house had a coal burning stove for both heat and cooking. The room was filled with smell of burning coal and I felt a bit suffocating since the oxygen was already quite thin at this altitude.
It rained halfway passed the night and the temperature dropped quite low (normal for high plateau), but there was no water leakage at my tent so sleep was ok although not quite comfortable. Due to the altitude, I was feeling slight headache but it was gone after some beer and liqueur served at the dinner.

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途中で見た青海鉄道。20年くらい前に乗車した豪州のインディアン・パシフィック号を思い出した。
Spotted a train heading for Lhasa on Ching Hai Railway. I recalled tans-Australia train, the Indian Pacific that I took more than 20 years ago.

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湖畔沿いに設置されていたチベット仏教特有の宗教的シンボル、ストラ流し。それぞれの布地にはお経が書き込まれており、この流しが風になびく事でお経が広まる、というコンセプト。
A typical Tibetan Buddhism symbol, Sutra Streamer found near the lake. Each cloth has Buddhism teachings written and it is believed that wind would carry the teachings.

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湖を左に見ながら、広大な大地、広大な空が広がる。
The lake is on the left-hand side with expanding field and big sky.

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民宿の夕暮れ。
Dusk at the tent hotel.

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ドスン、ドスンという音がしてきたので覗いてみると、母屋のキッチンで肉にナタを振るう民宿の兄ちゃんがこちらを向いてニヤリ。肉眼では見えないほど暗かったが、D3sの高感度性能が見せてくれたシーンだ。
Dull thumping noise came from the kitchin and when I took a peek, the hotel's chef grinned at me with an axe raised high. It was too dark to see by naked eyes, but my Nikon D3s did not fail to capture the moment with its high ISO capability.

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民宿の長。80歳近いようだが、元気な親父さんだ。同行していた40代の女性を気に入ったらしく、ナンパを試みていた。脱帽。
The chief of the family. He is near 80 years old but in quite a good health. He showed a big interest in one of our traveling member, a woman in 40's, and he was trying to persuade her to stay longer. That's my man! I have to learn the secret from this guy.

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調理も、暖房もこの石炭ストーブが主役。一応、電力はあるので電球がぶら下がっている。意外だったのはその電球がLED電球だった事。撮影にあたって、色温度があまりにもクールなので、タングステン色を意識してケルビン設定を7000代まで上げた。
Cooking and heating are done with this coal burning stove. They do have electricity and there were light bulbs dangling from the ceiling. What surprised me was that they were LED lights. Since the color temperature of those lights are too cool, I set the Kelvin setting at over 7000 on my D3s for shooting under available lights for depicting tungsten color.

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夕食が終わる頃、宿の娘さんがチベットの歌を披露してくれた。豊かな声質、声量ともに、酸欠高地にいるとは思えなかった。
Toward the end of the dinner, a daughter of the owner family sung some Tibetan songs. I was impressed with her rich voice and sound quality although we were at oxygen deprived high plateau.
[PR]
by ipa_ibaraki | 2010-07-13 16:49 | 長屋 陽